Quince

Quinces should be firm when squeezed and intensely fragrant. They are often covered with a downy white fuzz that must be rubbed off before cooking. The thin skin bruises and blemishes easily — nicks and scratches are totally normal. Avoid large dark-brown or black mushy spots, or fruit that feels spongy.

An underripe quince has greenish-yellow skin; it turns golden yellow when ripe. Many recipes actually call for barely ripe quince (more green than yellow) rather than fully ripe.

Quinces can be quite large — sometimes topping two pounds — and resemble a bumpy, rounded pear. If you can't find them at a regular grocery store, try farmers' markets, Middle Eastern grocers, or specialty food stores in late September through November.

Whole quinces keep on the countertop for up to a week, or in the refrigerator in a paper bag for several weeks — they're remarkably long-lasting for fresh fruit.

If you've peeled and sliced a quince, immediately drop it into acidulated water (with a splash of lemon juice) — cut quince oxidizes almost instantly.

The Color Transformation: Raw quince flesh is creamy white. Cooking triggers the formation of natural anthocyanin pigments, turning the fruit anywhere from blush pink to a stunning deep ruby red — the longer and slower the cooking, the more dramatic the color.

Poaching: The classic preparation. Simmer quince in honey, wine, or spiced syrup (cinnamon, vanilla, star anise) until tender and rosy. Serve with yogurt, cheese, or alongside roasted meats.

Baking: Quince makes extraordinary pies and tarts paired with apple or pear. It pairs beautifully with warm spices (cinnamon, cloves, cardamom) and rich sweeteners like honey.

Savory Uses: In Middle Eastern and North African cooking, quince is used as much in savory dishes as sweet — paired with lamb in Persian khoresh-e beh or Moroccan tagines for a sour-sweet note. Try a quince glaze on roast turkey. Italian mostarda — fruit preserved in mustard — is another excellent savory application.

Quince shines brightest in preserves — its natural high pectin content means no added pectin is needed for jams or jellies.

Membrillo (dulce de membrillo): The famous Spanish quince paste — cooked down to a dense, sliceable ruby-red slab. A classic pairing with Manchego cheese on any cheese board.

Related preparations around the world: French pâte de coing, Italian cotognata, Portuguese marmelada — all versions of the same ancient Persian quince confection, and all the root of the word "marmalade" (from the Portuguese marmelo, meaning quince).

Pickled quince pairs wonderfully with strong, salty cheeses on boards or sandwiches.

The word "marmalade" originally referred to quince preserves — not orange. It derives from the Portuguese marmelo (quince), which comes from the Ancient Greek melimelon, meaning "honey-apple."

Before commercial gelatin was introduced in the 1890s, quince was the primary natural source of pectin for thickening jams, jellies, and confections.

Wild quince trees still grow in Azerbaijan, Iran, southwestern Russia, and Turkmenistan — the Caucasus region where the fruit is thought to have originated.

Quince trees are highly susceptible to fire blight, a devastating bacterial infection — one reason they largely disappeared from American farms and gardens.

Seasonality: Quinces appear in markets around late September and are gone by early November — a narrow, precious window.

Geography: World leaders in quince production are Turkey, China, Uzbekistan, and Iran. In the US, only about 250 acres are grown commercially — mostly in California — and primarily as dwarfing rootstock for pear trees rather than for fruit production.

Pesticides: Because quinces are grown in very limited quantities in the US, their environmental footprint is relatively light. Disease susceptibility (fire blight) can require antibiotic sprays — as of 2014, organic certification no longer permits antibiotic application on designated organic fruit trees.